Gluing: For injected molded, or styrene kits, use 'model airplane' glue for the large assemblies, i.e. fuselage and wing halves, chassis and turret pieces, and any smaller parts you want to monitor and adjust as they dry, such as tank gun barrel halves. This type of adhesive melts the plastic into a weld and bonds stronger than 'white' or 'super' glues and is easier to sand smooth. To hide 'seams' hold two pieces together and run a bead of glue down the inside joint, this works wonders for squared off turret sections.
For Resin kits, or resin after market parts, a 'Super' glue type adhesive works best. The only problem is getting two parts lined up correctly. If two parts of an assembly go askew they can be pried apart and reglued.
Use fast drying 'Super' glue to attach smaller parts after painting , such as antennas, machine guns, pitot tubes, tools, track sections, etc..
If any sanding is needed be sure to do it while the glue is still tacky before it completely sets, otherwise it will be as hard as steel and the plastic around the area may get the brunt of the sanding and end up marred.
White or 'Elder's' glue is great for clear plastic. It will hold canopies, headlight lenses, and windows in place without clouding or frosting, it dries clear and is paintable. It is also good for reattaching decals that will not adhere to paint or have peeled off through the years .Filler: Squadron Green Putty is my choice. It spreads smoothly and easily without rolling up into balls. It can be thinned with alcohol to run into small cracks and crevices. Any small metal blade type tool can be used for application. An old, dull hobby knife or a ceramic working tool does well. To apply to wing roots or other compound curves run a finger down the seam pushing the putty into the crack.
In some cases brushed or sprayed on paint will be thick enough to fill a spot. A coat of a neutral color, gray or rust, can serve as a primer and show areas that need more sanding or filling.
Sanding: A 'Swiss' File set is a must! Available at most hardware stores and inexpensive, the 6 or 12 different shaped files save time, trouble and greatly improve the appearance of any model. Sanding Media -any flexible, high grit paper will do. Start with the lowest grit and work your way to the highest until the surface is to your liking. I've gone as far as sanding last with a small piece of notebook paper to get a glassy smooth surface. For the compound curves mentioned in 'Filler' wrap the flexible sand paper around a paintbrush, tool handle or screwdriver blade that is about the same diameter of the curve and sand away.
