How to Modfiy a Stock 1g gauge cluster
With Autometer 52mm (2 1/16") gauges
AND
retain a "stock" look.
The original inspiration behind this was purley aesthetic. I had seen people put Autometer gauges in the stock cluster before, but they always had to remove the clear plastic lense, OR cut the holes MUCH bigger and off center. This is because of the HUGE autometer "signature" chrome bezel's. I figured there HAD to be a way around this. And so I did the following.
WARNING!
This WILL void ANY warentees on the guages you are going to use!
This modification is NOT reversible! The gauge cluster will NOT be reusable, nor will the gauges!
Doing this requires a profencicy with soldering, as well as using a dremel.
A good understanding of Electronics is also required!
OK! Now that I got that out of the way lets begin!
First the basic idea here is to hack your gauge cluster enough to fit a gauge. Easy enough, right? Wrong! There are space confinments in the cluster itself; but then on top of that, that lovley printed circuit on the back of the cluster, is in the way. The first steps I didn't photo document the first steps, so I'll briefly explain them.
Step 1: Remove the gauge cluster. If you can't figure this out, maybe this VFAQ isn't for you. something like 7-8 screws and a few wiring harnesses are all that holds it in.
Step 2: Opening the cluster. Take the clear cover off. Now, BEFORE you forcably remove the black bezel (like i did =X) turn the gauge cluster over. Directly above the ABS light (or the Oil light If you don't have ABS) there is a screw that is set REALLY far into the gauge, remove it. After that the black part should come off with out a hitch.
Step 3: Removing the stock gauges. See those little tiny screws on the faces of the gauges? don't take them out. turn the cluster back over and behind each gauge there are some silver screws (3 for the Water Temp and Fuel level, 2 for oil pressure) take these out. chances are 10+ years have stuck them to the copper traces a bit. Gently pry under them with a small screw driver and they should pop right off. The gauges should then come right out of the cluster.
OK! Now the fun begins! heres what your going to need.
A VERY small flat head screwdriver
A soldering iron (preferably <50 watts) and solder (rosin core, of course)
A dremel
18 gauge wire
and of course 3 autometer 2 1/16" gauges.
NOTE: This MAY work with 1 or 2 guages, but I did not have any desire to test if they will fit with the stock gauges in place.
Step 1:
Take your Small Screwdriver and gently pry all the way around the bezel of the autometer gauges. After you've gone all the way around pry a bit harder on one spot. Be careful not to break the white "cup" that holds the gauge. After a bit of persuasion the bezel will come off. The assembly will look like this:
There are 3 peices: the Chrome bezel, the Glass, and the Inner black bezel. Throw away the Chrome bezel and Glass. KEEP THE BLACK BEZEL! DO NOT LOSE THIS!!
Step 2: Dremel out the stock bezel.
Take the dremel and make one pass around the inside edge of the stock hole with a sanding barrel attachment. Then see if the back bezel (from the autometer gauge) fits snugly. If not go around again, and re-test if the bezel snugly fits. Repeat until the bezel fits in nice and snug. Then dremel the lip down flush with the rest of the bezel.
Notice much difference between the stock sized holes and the bored out one? no one else will either!
The inner black bezel will now fit nice and snugly into the bored out hole; you can set the gauge behind the window, and not only will that black bezel hold the gauge roughly in place (won't hold the gauge snugly), but it will cover the edges of it as well!
Step 3: More modifications to the gauge.
Those long threded rods need to not be there anymore. I found a cutoff wheel on the dremel quite handy to get them short, then a sanding bit to get them flush.
Step 4: Fixing the Gauge to the Bezel.
Put a THIN bead of Superglue on the edge of the white "cup" that hold the gauge in place. Then press it aginst the back of the bezel until it tacks on. YOU MUST HAVE THE BLACK BEZEL FROM THE GAUGE IN!! Also, get it straight. You only get one shot at this. This Step Can be delayed until you are done so you can put the gauge in the cluster to confirm level-ness (Im fairly sure thats not a word)
Step 5: Making the gauges fit.
See all that white area? All that is in the way of the gauges. Well its actually not, BUT, it IS in the way of being able to plug ANYTHING into the back of them. So basically what you want to do is follow any trace that goes through that area to either side. then using some sandpaper, scuff the plastic off, exposing the copper trace. Solder a jumper wire from one side of the gauge to the other.
CAUTION!: If you leave the Soldering iron on for too long it will begin to melt the cluster itself underneeth the trace! this is NOT good. only keep the iron down long enough to ensure a good solder (no cold solders).
CAUTION 2:There are 2 diodes near the bottom of the cluster, thse do need to be placed back in the wires, and they MUST remain in the same direction they were going.
Heres a closer pic of some of my wonderful soldering :rolleyes:
Step 6: Almost done! Now just get a cut off wheel on the dremel, and cut all that white plastic off.
The chances of you cutting at least 1 of the jumper is pretty high, so just be ready to have to re-solder 1 or 2 of em.
Thats it! All done! Now just wire in your gauges (all those jumpers make finding a power source and switched power source REALLY easy!)
<-//OPTIONAL STEP 7\\->: While with the black bezels in place, the fact that the gauges weren't always there is almost indistinguishable, there is another step you can take to further hide your gauge swapping hijinks. Go to ebay and type "90-94 Bezel" You should come up with a few different types of bezels that will go right OVER the stock one, and further cover the modifications. I picked this one up for 9.00 + shipping:
